Archive for May, 2005



Into the Khanates

Published by Gareth Morgan on May 29, 2005

We have a few Khanates (mini kingdoms) that the Khans (mongols) established across Central Asia which we’ll visit. Konye-Urgench was our first, and now we’re at Khiva, which is unique, in that the Soviets restored it to be a ‘living museum’. While it’s a bit sterile and like a theme park, it makes a nice [...]


For Those Interested In Geology

Published by Bryan Wyness on May 27, 2005

Turkey and Iran have got the most fascinating landscapes . I am now digging back 40 plus years to remenber some of the local geology ( Iam sure my friend Bruce will comment if I am too wrong ) The thing that struck me was the extent of Glaciation all the classic tell tale [...]


Aral Sea

Published by Jo Morgan on

As you head across the mainly desert wasteland a raised penninsular rises up where the run down town of Moynak is. Formerly a fishing village on the Aral sea and now 200km from the water” edge. The rivers that fed this unique ecosystem were diverted to grow cotton in another part of the [...]


Karakum Desert

Published by Gareth Morgan on May 25, 2005

It’s called the black desert, not because of the colour of its sand but because of the untoward things that befall those who attempt to traverse it. Mystical or felonous, the yarns over the centuries have made many in Turkmenistan very superstitious about venturing into this wasteland that occupies 80% of the country.
It certainly is [...]


Las Vegas AKA Ashgabat

Published by Jo Morgan on May 21, 2005

From muddy and dusty streets and adobe houses in the East of Iran we come over the mountains to what appears to be an American dream town Ashgabat in the desert. We are in shock as we didn’t expect such opulence and ostentatious wealth even though we had read of the oil and gas [...]


Caspian Capers

Published by Gareth Morgan on May 19, 2005

Every town we enter we cause a furore. Simply because we are 6 illegal bikes, are dressed like astronauts and one of us is female, is enough to cause mayhem. As soon as we stop a crowd quickly gathers, consisting of pedestrians, 125 cc “road lice” and cars. It blocks the road and people get [...]


Road Lice

Published by Gareth Morgan on

A phenomenon that is prevelant on Iranian roads we have labelled, “road lice”.
The maximum size bike here (apart from ours) is 125 cc and they are everywhere, mainly ridden by very young men (normally two up) who have nothing else to do but cruise the highways all day. With petrol at 16 cents per [...]


The Silkrider Wedgie & Closing the Gaps

Published by Gareth Morgan on

We were told that riding a motorcyle through Tehran was absolute madness, that the drivers there are merciless and we would all end up hospitalised. So we practised a technique to get through the city’s famously congested streets and survive the antics of its equall famous suidcidal drivers. We have called it the “Silkrider Wedgie”. [...]


The Effects of No Booze

Published by Gareth Morgan on

It has been 10 days now since we entered Iran and the effects of no booze are beginning to show. As his immunity has steadily declined, Bryan has come down with the lurg that had previously hit Joanne and Gareth, Phil has swollen wrists and is struggling to see, Brendan has been riding off by [...]


Loose again

Published by Jo Morgan on

Just out of police “house arrest”.
Had to look on the funny side and I found it rather interesting that they demanded all the boys passports but didn’t think I would have one. I had to send mine down to the station later when we thought the police were going to change our visas. There [...]